Our extensive knowledge and experience can
help you quickly solve a bunny problem that may seem more
troublesome than usual.
As a BunnyLuv client you are provided with unique methods
that ensures a level of communication between
you and your rabbit you hadn't thought possible!!! Email
us to become a client.
Like anything in life, it's
easy if you know how!
Welcome to the World of Bunny Luv!
The following is general
information for all bunny owners covering:
We believe cages should be sized according to the amount of
time the rabbit will be enclosed in it. If a rabbit is to
be continuously penned it should have a minimum of 8 feet
of flat ground to run and jump in. Wire bottoms of old style
hutches are TERRIBLE for rabbit
feet. Cover them with hay or even inverted carpet to eliminate
foot problems, carpet to be removed and replaced with each
In outdoor pens we apply fresh hay to the floors once a
week, remove soiled hay as needed and remove all bedding once
Within the cage should be a wooden house that the rabbit
can call its own, doubling as a platform for the rabbit to
sit watch on. Extra platforms provide alternative vantage
points as well as exercise.
Wiring the bottom of a ground cage creates security.Rabbits
are amazingly efficient diggers, and layering hay creates
a challenging environment the rabbit can arrange as it likes.
Outdoor rabbits will choose one place in their cage to poop.
You can place a litter pan in that spot to make for easier
Indoor Rabbits: They
can survive quite happily in small spaces. Cages should be
no smaller than 4 ft long by 2 ft high by 2 ft wide for a
medium rabbit of 5 to 7lbs, but they MUST
be allowed to run EVERY DAY or
at a MINIMUM, every other day.
A single room or a hallway with the doors closed provides
plenty of room for a rabbit to run.
They also need a house within their cage to call their own.
Litterboxes should be filled with clay, hay or woodchips
only, no clumping or scented litters. Lionheads should be
in hay, clay or wood pellets only
as the woodchips become tangled in their hair and get into
Litterbox training is a natural act for rabbits and simple
to do when you use their instincts!
Exercise: Your rabbit
needs exercise as much as it needs love! Indoors try toys
of cloth, balls with bells, towels, leaves, flowerpots with
bottoms cut out. Try different things to see what they like,
and write us if you discover something new!
Backyard running should be done only
after you have made sure the yard is secure. There should
be no escape holes and rabbits should be supervised or on
leashes at all times. Digging is a favorite pastime and you
would be surprised how quickly a rabbit can dig under a fence!
Food: apples, pears,
peaches, cherries, apricots, carrots, red cabbage, cauliflower
greens and stalks, broccoli, banana, fruit leathers, tops
from radish, carrots, turnips, spinach, dark leafed lettuces,
fresh herbs like corriander, parsley, green grass, unsalted
soda crackers, graham crackers, unsalted sunflower seeds with
shell, rose petals(unsprayed and washed), popcorn(unsalted).
Experiment and find new foods you both like!
As an herbivore your rabbit will want to nibble anything
that grows but some things are NOT SO
GOOD. Like large amounts of green cabbage, cauliflower
and broccoli florets, iceberg lettuce, mushrooms, peanuts
and cashews, tomatoes and ALL HOUSEPLANTS (just to be safe).
Some VERY BAD things for bunnies
to eat are potatoes (especially the plants), chocolate, cheese,
coffee, pop, alcohol, sugared cereals, potato chips, cigarettes!
Remember that chewing is a method of testing, all things
usually get a nibble just to see what they are. Keep the bad
stuff out of reach!
With a varied diet of fresh food plus hay and kibble, your
rabbit should receive an adequate supply of vitamins and minerals.
They do not need salt or mineral blocks.
Rabbits need wood to chew -we recommend fruit woods, apple,
apricot, pear, peach or cherry if you can find it. Rabbits
especially like the new shoots and branches from those trees,
but commercial woodchew products are a fine substitute. Make
sure all wood, shoots and branches are washed and unsprayed.
Don't buy your rabbit a bone
for chewing.There are such things packaged for rabbits. Your
rabbit is a strict herbivore and chewing on a bone is quite
repellant to them!
Make sure you ALWAYS have fresh water available for your
They are prone
to dehydration and die quickly from it!
We do not give our rabbits water from bottles - we feel
they must work too hard to get a good drink. We use 10 oz
stainless steel bird feeder cups, available in any pet store
were parrot supplies are sold. A wide mouthed coffee cup or
handled soup bowl can also be used.Use a twist tie to attach
handle to cage to prevent spills. You might be surprised how
much your rabbit will drink, given the chance.
Waterbowls must be rinsed and cleaned every day.
Indoor and outdoor temperatures affect your rabbit the same
way they do you. Imagine summer with a fur coat! Remember
- heat is a rabbit killer! When in doubt, provide your rabbit
with an iced container, like a pop bottle of frozen water
to lay next to.
a Rabbit's Credo: "I'm sure I'm going to be eaten!".
All of your rabbit's behavior is based on that idea.
Be aware of your rabbit's fears. A rabbit sees an open hand
as a claw and a big smile of white teeth as a threat.
A well mannered rabbit does not chew on your furniture or
electrical cords, bite and scratch when it is picked up or
ignore the litterbox. But a well mannered rabbit is dependant
on your early relationship and early bonding with your rabbit
is important to success.
Our clients use a special 'Lick and Chew' technique every
time they take their rabbits out of a cage to assure their
rabbits of their safety and to cement life long friendships!
Bad rabbit behaviour is usually the result of fear, boredom
or owner/rabbit miscommunication. Our clients use a gentle
'PREDATOR HOLD' when showing a rabbit what is Not Allowed
and are consistent in enforcing it. The rabbit learns quickly
and wants to please.
A consistantly shy rabbit is insecure. Does your rabbit have
a place of its own to retreat to at all times(inside cage
and out)? When it is frightened does it turn its face into
the corner, struggle wildly or bite when picked up, urinate
freely outside litterbox? This behavior should be addressed,
your bunny is unhappy!!
Perhaps we can help.
Boy rabbits love to explore, discovering what is behind each
cushion and every piece of furniture. They go exploring, then
come back to check on you, maybe wanting to have an ear scratched.
Boys will often give small "bites" to their owners
- this is not aggression but ownership - you're mine, he says.
Girl rabbits will explore to discover the boundaries of their
territory, then be content to live within them. They will
spend more time sitting beside you, enjoying the quiet times.
A healthy rabbit rarely requires a vaccination unless it
is to be exposed to other rabbits. Rabbit diseases are highly
contagious and deadly. The choice is yours. An ill rabbit
will refuse to eat, hides in a dark place, has diarrhea or
no pellets at all and will not respond to you. Consult your